Climbing Eldo with Everybody Else in the World
It was the weekend, so what else would Mark and I do? We headed south to Eldorado Canyon to try out some climbs we’ve been eye-ing for several weeks now. Unfortunately, it seemed like every climber in the northern Front Range had similar ideas. Also unfortunately, there are only a few faces in the canyon that are warm enough to climb on this time of year, so we all descended upon Wind Tower like fanboys at a Valve demo.
There are a few photos from the day in the gallery.
The tower was crawling with climbers when we got there, but we were late enough in the morning that a few groups were leaving. We were able to climb a couple classics despite the crowds and mass confusion.
The Bomb (5.4) – This climb starts on a ledge that we traversed out on to, and left us racking up in an already exposed position. We climbed to the new chain anchors, which ended up being almost exactly half of a rope length. The climb was not hard, but the pro was tricky and the exposure was very nice. With all of the people climbing around us, and the raging creek in the valley below, communication became difficult about 10ft after Mark left the ground. Another problem with climbing in Eldo on a busy day — the constant yells, screams and calls between climbers and belayers are confusing, and often the cause of accidents.
Recon (5.6) – While belaying Mark up the second climb of the day, I actually had a party throw their rope down on me. They tried to avoid rappelling on my head, but as they pulled their rope though the anchor it flew down and smacked me on the helmet. Then another group came down from the anchor, and again I got hit on the helmet by their rope as they pulled it through the anchor. By the time I was climbing, there were snowflakes floating down, people screaming on all sides, and I was not happy.
This climb was just as easy as the first climb, proving that grading in Eldo is nearly meaningless. Mark wanted to continue on to the top of the rock, but I convinced him to head down by pointing out the dark clouds that were beginning to blot out the sun, and the group of more than six climbers that were vying for position to use the next set of anchors to rap down. In order to traverse over to the rap anchors for our pitch, I had to cross over some poor guy’s lead line, and then jump infront of another pair that had just rapped down to our ledge. As we set up the rappel and came down, the other couple trying to get down traversed the ledge under, over and around three other pairs of climbers to get to another set of rap anchors.
I know Eldo is busy on the weekends, but this felt creepy and unsafe. I hope that it is because there are so few places for climbers in the warm weather, and that climbs will free up as the snow melts. Otherwise, these two pitches might be the last climbs we do in Eldo for the season.
Colin and I climbed in Eldo pretty much all summer last year and it was NEVER that crazy. I think you ran into the ‘these are the only warm climbs on a sprinter day’ phenomenon. i recommend that you give it another try when it warms up a bit.
if you haven’t done bastille’s crack, you should definitely go down just for that.
Yeah, we still have a bunch of climbs that I’d love to do there this year. The Bastille crack is definitely one of them. We’d like to climb the Wind Ridge, Swanson Arrete and Long John Wall too. It would be really great to go back, but not if we have to deal with that zoo again.
Ahhhhh… Katie, don’t give up on Eldo so quick. Eldo is a big canyon and there are plenty of other places to go. Unfortunately, Wind Tower is one of the most popular places given it’s quick access and high number of moderate climbs. There has been a crowd there almost every time. Another area that you should check out is Rincon – this should be good in the winter given that it is south facing (first time I climbed here was in winter of 2006) and hosts a huge number of classics (although you have to be willing to climb 9’s and 10’s). You know my thoughts on this – Eldo is a wonderful place, but due to the proximity to Boulder and the humongous number of awesome climbs this place will always be crowded on the weekends.
How did you all miss West Overhang right above Recon and The Bomb?! This is such an awesome one move pitch – the overhang is so much fun (and soooo easy)! Also, if you hit this area again, do Calypso to Reggae for an awesome 8. I agree with you that the ratings can be suspect, but this is the case with a lot of places that I have been (especially in the 9 range); Wind Ridge is an excellent example of this. The 8 variation (which you have to do! have to!) is by no means 8; but it is superfun (link the first two pitches to the cave for an awesome 200? pitch).
So, in summary – don’t give up on this place. You will learn to love it. And try to hit the popular climbs (like the Bastille Crack) on the weekdays.